How to Cut Energy Use with Your Washing Machine: 10 Practical Tips
The most effective ways to reduce washing machine energy use are to wash at 30°C, always run full loads, use the eco programme, increase spin speed, and air dry where possible. These five habits alone account for the majority of savings available from a standard household washing routine. The rest of this guide explains why each one matters, what other factors affect running costs, and when it genuinely makes sense to replace an old machine.
Why the washing machine is worth paying attention to
Wet appliances (washing machines, tumble dryers, and dishwashers taken together) account for around 10% of a typical UK household’s electricity bill, according to the Energy Saving Trust. The washing machine is the most heavily used of the three for most families. A 7kg machine used 220 times a year costs roughly £25 to £35 annually to run at standard rates, but that figure climbs quickly with an older, less efficient model or consistently hot wash temperatures.
The key driver of energy consumption is water heating. When a machine heats water, it draws sustained electricity through its heating element for a significant portion of the cycle. The motor and drum mechanism use far less. This means that wash temperature is the single most controllable variable in your running costs, and that shifting from 60°C to 30°C makes a more material difference than almost any other behavioural change.
Understanding where the cost comes from makes the tips below easier to prioritise. Most of them address water heating directly or indirectly.
10 tips to reduce washing machine energy use
Dropping from 40°C to 30°C reduces a cycle’s energy consumption by around 38%, according to Energy Saving Trust data. At 20°C, the saving rises to approximately 62% compared to a 40°C wash. Modern detergents are formulated with enzymes that activate effectively from 20°C, so for lightly soiled everyday laundry such as T-shirts, jeans, and casual clothing, there is no cleaning penalty from washing cold. Save higher temperatures for bedding, towels, and heavily soiled items where hygiene genuinely requires heat. Our guide to cold-water washing and modern detergents covers this in full.
Running a half-empty drum uses nearly the same electricity as a full one, because the machine still heats the same volume of water and runs the motor for the same duration. Waiting until you have a full load before starting a cycle is one of the simplest and most effective efficiency habits. If a small load is unavoidable, use the half-load setting if your machine has one, as it adjusts water volume accordingly.
Eco programmes can look counterintuitive because they typically run for longer than a standard cycle. The extended time is deliberate: by soaking and agitating for longer, the machine achieves the same cleaning result using less water and lower heat. Independent testing consistently shows that eco modes reduce energy consumption per wash, often by 35% or more compared to a standard 40°C cycle. If you have not used your machine’s eco setting before, it is worth making it your default for routine laundry.
A faster spin extracts more water from fabric before the clothes leave the machine. Higher spin speeds do draw marginally more electricity during the spin phase, but the net effect is positive: the clothes come out drier, which significantly shortens any subsequent tumble drying time. Given that a tumble dryer uses considerably more energy per session than a washing machine, anything that reduces drying time has a meaningful impact on the overall laundry energy cost.
A tumble dryer uses roughly two to three times as much electricity per session as a washing machine cycle. Line drying outdoors or using an indoor airer costs nothing to run and is gentler on fabrics. On a typical UK household budget, moving from tumble drying every load to air drying most loads represents a larger annual saving than any single change to washing machine habits.
Many garments do not need laundering after every single wear. Jeans, knitwear, and outer layers worn over other clothing can often be aired and worn again. Washing only when genuinely needed reduces both the number of cycles per week and the associated wear on the fabric itself, extending the lifespan of clothing. The UK’s Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) has advocated for this approach on both energy and sustainability grounds.
A blocked pump filter forces the machine to work harder to move water through the drum, increasing motor strain and potentially extending cycle times. Most manufacturers recommend cleaning the filter every one to three months. It is usually located behind a small panel at the front base of the machine and takes only a few minutes to clear. A clean filter also reduces the risk of drainage problems and unpleasant odours.
If you wash predominantly at low temperatures, a monthly empty cycle at 60°C or above using a washing machine cleaner prevents detergent residue and bacteria from accumulating inside the drum, hoses, and seal. This is not directly an energy-saving measure, but it preserves the machine’s operating efficiency over time. A machine clogged with limescale or residue runs less efficiently and may require longer cycles or repeated washes to achieve clean results.
If your household is on Economy 7 or a smart tariff such as Octopus Agile, electricity is cheaper during certain hours, typically late at night or early morning. Running the washing machine during those periods reduces the cost of each cycle even if the energy consumption itself remains the same. Many modern machines include a delayed-start timer, which makes scheduling off-peak washes straightforward without requiring you to stay up. If you are not on a time-of-use tariff, this tip does not apply. Standard-variable-tariff customers pay the same rate at all hours.
Packing the drum too full restricts water and detergent circulation, which reduces cleaning performance and often leads to a second wash, effectively doubling the energy cost of that load. The Energy Saving Trust recommends leaving a hand-width of space at the top of the drum. Beyond efficiency, overloading places extra mechanical stress on the drum bearings and motor, which can shorten the machine’s working life.
How detergent choice and dosage affect efficiency
Detergent affects efficiency in a way that is easy to overlook. Two habits in particular can quietly add to your energy and water consumption without producing any improvement in cleaning results.
Watch out for this
Using too much detergent triggers extra foam in the drum. Modern washing machines detect this through foam sensors and automatically run additional rinse cycles to clear it. Each extra rinse uses water, extends the cycle time, and increases energy consumption. The solution is straightforward: follow the dosage guidance on the packaging, adjusted for your water hardness.
The second detergent-related factor is format. Powder detergents can struggle to dissolve fully at temperatures below 30°C, leaving residue on dark clothing and in the machine. If you wash regularly at 20°C or 30°C, a liquid or gel detergent formulated for cold-water performance will dissolve completely and clean more effectively, which reduces the chance of a re-wash. Concentrated liquids also require smaller doses, which compounds the benefit of not overdosing.
Water hardness is relevant too. In hard water areas (much of the south and east of England), limescale builds up on the heating element over time, reducing its efficiency and making the machine work harder to reach the target temperature. Using the correct amount of detergent for your water hardness, and periodically running a descaling cycle, keeps the element performing as intended.
When to consider upgrading your washing machine
Behavioural changes can take a machine a long way, but there comes a point where the appliance itself is the limiting factor. If your current machine is more than ten years old, it is likely operating under older efficiency standards that predate the current A to G energy label system. An A-rated machine today can use as little as 0.35 kWh per cycle; an older E-rated model may use 0.8 kWh or more, which is more than twice the electricity for the same wash.
The case for upgrading strengthens when the machine develops faults that require repeated repair. As a general rule, if a repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new model, replacement is likely the more economical choice. Running cost savings from a more efficient appliance will contribute to offsetting the cost of a new machine over a number of years.
What to look for in a new machine
Prioritise the A to G energy rating (A being most efficient), look for an inverter motor (quieter and more durable than standard motors), and check for a genuine eco programme and a delayed-start function. Drum capacity should match your household’s typical load size. A machine that is consistently run at half-capacity is less efficient than a smaller machine run full.
Frequently asked questions
Based on an average consumption of 0.46 kWh per cycle and the Ofgem Q1 2026 price cap rate of 24.67p per kWh, the average cost per wash is approximately 11p. An efficient A-rated machine can cost around 9p per cycle (0.35 kWh), while an older or lower-rated model may cost 20p or more (0.8 kWh or above). Over 220 cycles a year, that difference adds up to roughly £24 for an efficient machine versus £48 or more for a less efficient one.
Yes. Eco programmes use lower temperatures and less water than standard cycles, achieving the same cleaning result through longer soak and agitation time. Independent testing shows energy savings of 35% or more per cycle compared to a standard 40°C wash. The longer run time can seem wasteful, but the energy figures show otherwise. The programme is designed specifically to minimise consumption rather than time.
Only if you are on a time-of-use tariff such as Economy 7 or a smart tariff that offers cheaper off-peak rates. For customers on a standard variable tariff, the rate is the same at all hours, so timing makes no difference to cost. If you are unsure which tariff you are on, check your energy bill or contact your supplier.
Washing at 30°C rather than 40°C reduces a cycle’s energy consumption by around 38%, according to Energy Saving Trust research. On a household running 220 cycles per year, that translates to a saving of roughly 40 kWh annually, worth around £10 at 2026 rates. Combined with a move to the eco programme, the saving is higher still. The financial figure is modest per year, but the change requires no cost or effort to maintain once it becomes routine.
Marginally, yes. The motor draws slightly more power at higher RPMs. But the energy saved on subsequent drying far outweighs this. If you use a tumble dryer, clothes that come out of a 1,400 RPM spin cycle need significantly less time to dry than those from a 1,000 RPM cycle. The net effect on total laundry energy use is positive when drying is taken into account.
Most manufacturers recommend every one to three months, depending on usage. Households that wash frequently or deal with pet hair, sand, or heavily soiled items should clean the filter closer to monthly. The filter is usually located behind a small access panel at the front base of the machine. Refer to your model’s manual if you are not sure where it is or how to remove it safely.
Key takeaways
- Water heating accounts for the majority of a washing machine’s energy use, which means wash temperature is the most impactful thing you can change.
- Switching from 40°C to 30°C reduces a cycle’s energy use by around 38%. Moving to 20°C saves around 62% compared to 40°C.
- Always run full loads. A half-empty drum costs almost the same to wash as a full one.
- The eco programme reduces energy use per cycle by using lower heat and less water over a longer run time.
- Higher spin speeds extract more moisture before drying, which saves energy overall if you use a tumble dryer.
- Overdosing detergent triggers extra rinse cycles in modern machines, wasting water and electricity. Stick to the recommended dose.
- If your machine is more than ten years old, an A-rated replacement could cut per-cycle consumption by more than half compared to an older E-rated model.
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