Why Does My Induction Hob Keep Switching Off Mid-Cook?

Induction hobs only heat when they detect a ferromagnetic pan — one whose base responds to a magnetic field — sitting on the active zone. If the pan is incompatible, or compatible but not sitting flat enough to maintain consistent contact with the glass, the hob’s detection system registers insufficient magnetic load and shuts the zone down, typically within two to five seconds.

A warped pan base is a common culprit on hobs that have been working correctly with the same pan for some time: pans can warp gradually from thermal shock (plunging a hot pan into cold water) or from being used at very high temperatures without food inside. The pan may still activate the zone initially but lose contact intermittently as it heats and expands.

• Confirm the pan is induction-compatible — a fridge magnet should stick firmly to the base
• Check the pan base for warping by placing it on a flat surface and pressing one side down
• Ensure the pan covers the zone’s detection area fully — a very small pan on a large zone can fall below the threshold

All induction hobs contain thermal sensors that monitor the temperature of internal components — particularly the electronics and the coils beneath the glass. If the internal temperature exceeds safe limits, the hob shuts down the relevant zone or the entire appliance to prevent damage. This is a protective measure, not a fault.

Overheating is most likely to occur when the hob has been running at high power for an extended period, when the ventilation slots on the underside or rear of the hob are obstructed, or when the hob is installed in a cabinet without adequate ventilation clearance beneath it. Built-in hobs require a minimum void beneath them — specified in the installation guide — for the internal cooling fan to draw cool air through the electronics.

• Check that the ventilation slots on the underside are not blocked by cabinet material, a drawer pulled out too far, or items stored beneath the hob
• Allow the hob to cool for 10 to 15 minutes before restarting
• Confirm the installation clearances meet the manufacturer’s specification

Most induction hobs have a maximum total power draw — typically 7kW to 7.5kW for a standard four-zone model. When multiple zones are running simultaneously at high settings, the combined load can exceed this limit. The hob’s power management system automatically reduces output on one or more zones to keep the total within the safe electrical limit, which can manifest as a zone appearing to switch off or drop to a noticeably lower power level without any user input.

This is normal behaviour and is a feature of the power sharing system rather than a fault. It is most noticeable when Boost or maximum power is active on two or more zones simultaneously. Newer high-specification models handle this more gracefully than older or budget models, distributing the reduction more evenly rather than cutting one zone entirely.

• Reduce the power level on one or more zones when running multiple zones at high settings
• Use Boost on one zone at a time — activate it for rapid boiling, then reduce to a lower setting before activating another zone at high power

Touch-sensitive control panels respond to any conductive contact — water droplets, condensation, a cloth resting against the panel, or steam from a boiling pan can all register as a touch input. This can accidentally activate the timer shut-off, the child lock, or even reduce the power setting without the cook realising. The hob then switches off or pauses as instructed by the accidental input.

Some hobs also have an auto-off timer that activates after a zone has been left at a low setting for an extended period without any interaction. This is a safety feature but can be surprising if you are not aware it is set.

• Keep the control panel area dry during cooking — wipe condensation away from around the panel
• Check whether a timer has been set and cancel it if not intentional
• Confirm the child lock is not active — most models show a lock symbol on the display when engaged
• Avoid resting cloths, pans, or other objects on the control strip

If none of the above explains the switch-off pattern, the issue may be in the electrical supply rather than the hob itself. An undersized circuit cable, a connection at the cooker isolator switch that has worked loose, or a supply voltage that dips under load can all cause the hob to shut down to protect its electronics. This type of fault is typically intermittent and harder to reproduce reliably.

Induction hobs draw significant current — a 7kW four-zone model draws around 30A at full load. The supply circuit, cable rating, and connection quality all need to be matched to this specification. An installation that was adequate when new may develop issues as connections age or if the circuit has been extended or modified since the hob was installed.

• Check whether the isolator switch or cooker connection unit shows any signs of overheating — discolouration, a burning smell, or a switch that feels warm
• Note whether the switch-off coincides with other high-draw appliances activating on the same circuit