The magnet test: how to check if a pan works on induction
Not sure whether your favourite frying pan will survive the switch to a new induction hob? There is a thirty second check that settles it: hold a magnet to the base. If it grips firmly, the pan is induction ready. This guide shows you how to run the test properly, what a strong, weak, or failed result really means, and why some pans pass on the side yet fail where it counts.
The thirty second version
You do not need anything special. A magnet from the fridge door does the job just as well as a lab magnet, because you are checking whether the base is magnetic at all, not measuring exactly how magnetic it is.
- Find a magnet. A fridge magnet, a magnetic clip, or a magnet from a child’s toy all work.
- Turn the pan upside down so the base faces up.
- Press the magnet flat against the centre of the base.
- Read the result. A firm grip means it is induction ready. A weak grip or none at all means it will struggle, or simply will not work.
A magnet clinging to the base is the single most reliable home test, because an induction hob only heats cookware with a magnetic base. If the magnet grabs, the hob can too.
Try it: the magnet test lab
Pick a pan material below and watch what the magnet does. It is the same behaviour you will see on your own worktop.
Interactive Magnet test lab
Tap a material to run the test.
Waiting for a material
Select a pan material above to see whether the magnet grips and what that means for induction.
Why induction only heats magnetic pans
An induction hob never heats the glass directly. Beneath the surface sits a copper coil that produces a fast changing magnetic field. When a pan with a ferrous base sits on the zone, that field stirs up electrical currents inside the metal, and the pan effectively heats itself. No magnetic metal means no currents, which means no heat.
That is the whole reason the magnet test works. The same property that lets a magnet grip the base is exactly what lets the hob pour energy into it. For a closer look at the coils and the currents they create, see our guide on how flex zone induction hobs work.
What works, and what does not
Most cookware falls cleanly into one of three groups. The middle group is where people get caught out, so always test the base rather than trusting the label.
- Cast iron
- Enamelled cast iron
- Magnetic stainless steel
- Carbon steel
- Steel core pans
- Plain stainless steel
- Aluminium with a bonded base
- Copper with a bonded base
- Older mixed sets
- Plain aluminium
- Plain copper
- Glass
- Ceramic and stoneware
The reason the middle column exists is manufacturing. A pan can be made of a non magnetic metal like aluminium, then have a disc of magnetic steel bonded to the underside so it works on induction. The body fails the magnet test, but the base passes, which is all that matters.
How strong should the pull be?
Sticking is not quite the full story. The strength of the grip tells you how well the pan will perform day to day.
The magnet grips hard and needs a tug to remove. This is ideal. The pan will heat quickly and evenly and be detected reliably.
The magnet clings but slides off easily. The pan may still work, though it can heat slowly or unevenly, and very light pans sometimes fail to be detected.
The magnet does not hold at all. The base is not magnetic, so the hob cannot heat it. This pan is not induction compatible.
Where to hold the magnet
This is the mistake that trips people up most. A pan can be magnetic on the sides but not on the base, or the other way around. Only the base touches the cooking zone, so that is the only reading that counts.
Test the base
Press the magnet flat in the centre of the underside. This is the surface that sits on the zone and the only part the hob can heat.
Do not judge by the sides
A magnet gripping the walls of the pan proves nothing. If the base is non magnetic, the pan still will not heat.
Two more base checks are worth a moment. The base should be reasonably flat so it makes good contact with the glass, and it needs to be wide enough for the zone to detect it. Very small pans, roughly under 10 to 12cm across the base, often fall below a hob’s minimum and will not switch the zone on even when the metal is magnetic.
The magnet sticks, but the hob still will not heat
Occasionally a pan passes the magnet test yet the hob refuses to play. When that happens, the metal is rarely the problem. Work through these in order.
If the base is narrower than the zone’s minimum pan size, the hob may not detect it. Check the manual for the smallest supported diameter.
A base that has bowed with age does not sit flush on the glass. Poor contact means weak or no heating. Sight along the base on a flat surface to check.
Sitting a small pan at the edge of a large zone can leave too little base over the coil. Centre it and try again.
Some budget pans have only a token magnetic base. It passes the magnet test but is too thin for the hob to lock onto, especially on low settings.
Child lock, demo mode, or a residual heat lockout can all stop a zone from firing. Rule these out before blaming the pan.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. Any household magnet works, including a fridge magnet. You are checking whether the base is magnetic at all, not measuring its strength precisely, so even a weak magnet gives a clear answer.
Not reliably. Induction only heats the part of the pan touching the zone, so the base is what matters. If the magnet grips the sides but not the base, the pan is unlikely to heat properly and may not be detected at all.
A firm grip is best. A strong, clinging hold means good induction performance. A weak pull can still work but may heat slowly or unevenly, and very light pans with a thin magnetic layer sometimes struggle to be detected.
Sometimes. An induction converter disc sits between the hob and the pan and heats up itself, letting you use non magnetic cookware. It is slower and less efficient than proper induction cookware, but it is a useful stopgap.
No. Some stainless steel is non magnetic and will fail the test. Many quality pans add a magnetic base plate so they work on induction, so always test the base rather than assuming.
Aluminium and copper are not magnetic, so a magnet will not grip them and an induction hob cannot heat them directly. Manufacturers get around this by bonding a magnetic steel plate to the base, which is what makes some aluminium and copper pans induction ready.
Key points
- Hold any magnet to the centre of the pan base. A firm grip means it is induction ready.
- Test the base, never the sides, because only the base touches the cooking zone.
- A strong snap signals good performance, a weak drag is marginal, and no grip means it will not work.
- Cast iron, carbon steel, and magnetic stainless steel pass. Plain aluminium, copper, glass, and ceramic do not.
- If a pan passes yet still will not heat, check base size, flatness, centring, and hob settings.
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