Home » Dishwasher Guides & Advice » What Size Integrated Dishwasher Do I Need?
What Size Integrated Dishwasher Do I Need?
Standard Integrated Dishwasher Sizes
Integrated dishwashers come in three width categories. Width is the defining dimension — height and depth are broadly consistent across models so they fit under a standard worktop, but always verify the specific niche dimensions in a model’s installation guide before ordering.
Suits families of 4 or more; the most common size in UK kitchens.
Suits 1–3 people; good for smaller kitchens and flats.
Fits a drawer space; less common and typically more expensive.
How to Measure Your Cabinet Aperture
Take all measurements with a steel tape measure rather than a soft tape, and record them in millimetres for accuracy. Kitchens are rarely perfectly square, so measuring at multiple points is not optional — it is how you avoid ordering a machine that does not fit.
Width — measure at three heights
Measure the cabinet opening at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the smallest of the three figures when selecting a model. Any protrusions — skirting boards, decorative end panels, pipework — will reduce the effective width.
Target: ≥ 600 mm (full-size) or ≥ 450 mm (slimline). Allow 2–3 mm clearance each side for sliding.Height — measure on both sides
Measure from the finished floor surface to the underside of the worktop on both the left and right sides. Use the smaller number. If the floor under the cabinet has not been tiled or finished to the same level as the rest of the kitchen, this will affect the available height.
Target: 810–870 mm. Adjustable feet add ±10–15 mm of fine-tuning.Usable depth — subtract any obstructions
Measure from the back wall to the front face of the cabinet opening, then subtract any pipes, sockets, or isolation valves that project into the space. The resulting figure is your usable depth. Add 5–7 cm behind the appliance for service connections.
Target: ≥ 600–650 mm total from wall to cabinet front (body depth 55–57 cm + rear service gap).Plinth clearance — check the door can open freely
The dishwasher door swings forward and down. A plinthThe kickboard panel at the base of kitchen units, typically 100–150 mm high, which conceals the adjustable feet beneath the cabinets. that is too tall, or an incorrectly cut plinth aperture, will obstruct the door and prevent full opening. Check the product’s installation diagram for the required plinth cut-out dimensions.
Typical plinth height: 100–150 mm. Most models require a cut-out — verify dimensions in the installation guide.Services — water, waste, and electrics
Confirm that the water inlet hose and waste drain hose will reach their connections without forcing the machine forward. The waste standpipe or trap connectionA U-bend fitting under the sink where the dishwasher’s waste hose connects, preventing sewer gases from entering the kitchen. should ideally be within 1.5–2 m of the appliance. Electrical supply should be a dedicated fused spur or accessible socket that can be isolated without disconnecting the appliance.
Waste connection: within 1.5–2 m. Power: fused spur or accessible socket.Door panel thickness and hinge swing
The furniture panel you attach to the dishwasher door adds 16–22 mm to the overall depth. Make sure a fully loaded, open door will not collide with adjacent units, an island, or the opposite run of cabinets. Allow at least 68–76 cm of clear space in front of the dishwasher for the door to lie flat and for comfortable loading.
Panel thickness: 16–22 mm. Clear opening space in front: ≥ 680–760 mm.Measurement Reference Checklist
Use the table below as a reference alongside the specific niche dimensionsThe manufacturer’s stated minimum cabinet opening measurements the dishwasher requires to fit and operate correctly — always found in the product’s installation guide. in your chosen model’s installation manual. Manufacturer specifications take precedence over general guidance.
| Dimension | What to measure | Target / guidance | Your measurement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Width | Cabinet opening at top, middle, bottom — use smallest value | ≥ 600 mm (full) or ≥ 450 mm (slimline); allow 2–3 mm clearance each side | _______ mm |
| Height | Floor to underside of worktop, both sides — use smaller value | 810–870 mm with levelling allowance; check floor height under cabinet | _______ mm |
| Usable depth | Wall to cabinet front, minus any pipe/socket protrusions | ≥ 600 mm (body 55–57 cm + 5–7 cm rear service gap) | _______ mm |
| Plinth height | Floor to underside of cabinet carcass | 100–150 mm typical; verify cut-out dimensions in installation guide | _______ mm |
| Door panel | Thickness of the furniture door panel you will attach | 16–22 mm typical; confirm hinge swing will not foul adjacent units | _______ mm |
| Services reach | Distance from appliance position to waste connection and power point | Waste within 1.5–2 m; power accessible for isolation | OK / Extend |
| Front clearance | Space in front of the cabinet opening when door is fully open | ≥ 680–760 mm for door to lie flat and baskets to slide out | _______ mm |
Door Systems: Sliding Hinge vs Door-on-Door
This is a frequently overlooked decision that can cause significant installation problems if you get it wrong — particularly if you are replacing an existing integrated dishwasher with a model from a different manufacturer. There are two ways the furniture door panel attaches to an integrated dishwasher.
Sliding hinge (rail hinge)
The furniture panel is attached to the cabinet carcass. When you open the dishwasher, the panel slides upward along rails as the door drops forward. The panel stays roughly in its original position rather than swinging out.
Best for: kitchens with a plinth height over 90 mm, or where the cabinet door needs to stay in place. Works with most kitchen styles and is the more universally compatible option.
Door-on-door (fixed hinge)
The furniture panel is attached directly to the dishwasher door itself. When you open the dishwasher, the panel opens with it, swinging fully outward and downward. No sliding mechanism is involved.
Best for: handle-free kitchens; heavier door panels; situations where the space above the plinth is very limited. Requires more clear space in front of the machine when the door is open.
If your plinth height is less than 90 mm, either system will typically work. Above 90 mm, a sliding hinge is usually necessary to allow the door to open without the panel catching on the plinth. If you are replacing an existing integrated dishwasher, sticking with the same hinge type is the simplest route unless you are also having cabinetry work done. Check the product listing or installation guide to confirm which system a model uses — not all models offer both.
Fully Integrated vs Semi-Integrated
Both types slot into standard cabinet openings and share the same width, height, and depth dimensions. The difference is entirely about the control panel’s visibility.
| Feature | Fully integrated | Semi-integrated |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance when closed | Completely hidden — looks identical to surrounding cabinets | Narrow control strip visible at the top of the door |
| Controls location | Inside the top edge of the door — only visible when open | External strip panel, visible and accessible at all times |
| Checking cycle progress | Requires opening the door, or a floor-projected light beam on some models | Visible at a glance without opening the door |
| Dimensions | Identical — same niche requirements for both types | |
| Best for | Kitchens where a seamless, uninterrupted look is the priority | Households who prefer quick access to controls and cycle information |
Some fully integrated models project a small beam of coloured light onto the floor to indicate that a cycle is running — a useful feature if the visible control strip of a semi-integrated model would feel like a compromise. Look for this in the product specification if it matters to you.
Which Size Is Right for Your Household?
Capacity needs tend to be straightforward: if you regularly run the dishwasher once a day and have a household of three or more, a full-size 60 cm model is almost always the better choice. A slimline works well for one or two people and rarely needs more than one cycle per day.
Choose full-size (60 cm) if…
- Your household has 3 or more people
- You cook regularly and generate a full load of dishes daily
- You entertain frequently and need capacity for larger pots and dishes
- Your cabinet aperture is 60 cm wide
- You want maximum flexibility on wash programmes and energy ratings
Choose slimline (45 cm) if…
- Your household has 1–2 people
- Your available cabinet width is 45 cm
- You are in a flat, studio, or smaller kitchen
- You are content to run the dishwasher every 1–2 days rather than daily
- Space efficiency is more important than capacity
Note that running a slimline dishwasher twice daily to cope with a larger household’s output will likely consume more water and energy overall than a single daily full-size cycle. If your space genuinely only accommodates 45 cm, then a slimline is the right answer — but if you have the width for 60 cm, the larger model is almost always the more practical long-term choice for a family. For further guidance on dishwasher types, see our dishwasher guides and advice section.
Common Measurement and Installation Mistakes
- Measuring at one point only. Cabinet openings are rarely perfectly parallel. Always measure width at three heights and height on both sides, then use the smallest figures.
- Forgetting the rear service gap. The body of the dishwasher is 55–57 cm deep, but the machine cannot sit flush against the back wall. Water and waste hoses need 5–7 cm of clearance behind the appliance.
- Ignoring the door panel thickness. A 20 mm furniture panel adds 20 mm to the effective depth. If your cabinet run is tight, this can mean the panel projects past adjacent cabinet fronts or collides with a door or island opposite.
- Getting the hinge type wrong. If you order a door-on-door model to replace a sliding hinge installation (or vice versa), the door panel will not function correctly without cabinet modifications.
- Not checking the plinth cut-out dimensions. Every integrated dishwasher specifies an exact plinth cut-out size. If you reuse an existing plinth cut-out from a different model, it may be the wrong size for the new appliance’s door to open fully.
- Fixing the machine in place before testing the door. Always slide the dishwasher fully into the niche and open the door completely before securing it. This catches clearance issues — particularly with the door panel swing — before the installation is complete.
- Overlooking floor height discrepancies. If the floor under the cabinet has not been tiled or finished to the same level as the surrounding floor (common in kitchen renovations), the available height will be greater than expected, and the adjustable feet may not compensate fully.
Frequently Asked Questions
Key Takeaways
- Most UK kitchens take a 60 cm full-size integrated dishwasher. A 45 cm slimline is the choice when the available width is genuinely limited to 45 cm.
- Measure width at three heights, height on both sides, and usable depth after subtracting any pipe or socket protrusions. Use the smallest figure in each dimension.
- Integrated dishwasher bodies are 55–57 cm deep — allow an additional 5–7 cm behind the appliance for service connections.
- Check your plinth height to determine whether a sliding hinge or door-on-door system is required. Getting this wrong can make the door inoperable without cabinet modifications.
- Fully integrated and semi-integrated models use identical niche dimensions. The only difference is whether the control panel is hidden or visible.
- Always compare your measurements against the specific niche dimensions in the product’s installation guide — general guidance cannot account for model-to-model variation.
- Slide the dishwasher fully in and test the door before fixing it in place. This is the step most commonly skipped, and the one that catches clearance issues before they become permanent problems.
Explore More Kitchen Advice & Buying Guides
Browse our latest articles covering appliance tips, energy-saving advice, and expert guidance – designed to help you choose, use, and get the most from your kitchen appliances.