What Size Integrated Dishwasher Do I Need
Dishwasher Guides & Advice

What Size Integrated Dishwasher Do I Need?

Most UK kitchens are built around a standard 60 cm cabinet width, which fits a full-size integrated dishwasher. If your available gap is 45 cm, a slimline model is the right choice. Before ordering either, measure the aperture width at three points, the height from floor to worktop underside on both sides, and the usable depth after subtracting any pipework — then cross-reference those figures against the specific model’s niche dimensions.

Standard Integrated Dishwasher Sizes

Integrated dishwashers come in three width categories. Width is the defining dimension — height and depth are broadly consistent across models so they fit under a standard worktop, but always verify the specific niche dimensions in a model’s installation guide before ordering.

Full-size
60 cm
Height81.5–87 cm
Body depth55–57 cm
Niche width≥ 600 mm
12–16 place settings

Suits families of 4 or more; the most common size in UK kitchens.

Slimline
45 cm
Height81.5–87 cm
Body depth55–57 cm
Niche width≥ 450 mm
9–10 place settings

Suits 1–3 people; good for smaller kitchens and flats.

Compact
~45 cm
Height~45 cm
Body depth55–60 cm
Niche widthVaries
6–8 place settings

Fits a drawer space; less common and typically more expensive.

Depth note: The body depth of most integrated dishwashers is 55–57 cm — not the 60 cm you may see quoted for freestanding models. You will also need to allow an additional 5–7 cm behind the appliance for water inlet and waste hoses, so the total depth requirement from wall to cabinet front is typically 60–65 cm minimum.

How to Measure Your Cabinet Aperture

Take all measurements with a steel tape measure rather than a soft tape, and record them in millimetres for accuracy. Kitchens are rarely perfectly square, so measuring at multiple points is not optional — it is how you avoid ordering a machine that does not fit.

Width — measure at three heights

Measure the cabinet opening at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the smallest of the three figures when selecting a model. Any protrusions — skirting boards, decorative end panels, pipework — will reduce the effective width.

Target: ≥ 600 mm (full-size) or ≥ 450 mm (slimline). Allow 2–3 mm clearance each side for sliding.

Height — measure on both sides

Measure from the finished floor surface to the underside of the worktop on both the left and right sides. Use the smaller number. If the floor under the cabinet has not been tiled or finished to the same level as the rest of the kitchen, this will affect the available height.

Target: 810–870 mm. Adjustable feet add ±10–15 mm of fine-tuning.

Usable depth — subtract any obstructions

Measure from the back wall to the front face of the cabinet opening, then subtract any pipes, sockets, or isolation valves that project into the space. The resulting figure is your usable depth. Add 5–7 cm behind the appliance for service connections.

Target: ≥ 600–650 mm total from wall to cabinet front (body depth 55–57 cm + rear service gap).
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Plinth clearance — check the door can open freely

The dishwasher door swings forward and down. A plinthThe kickboard panel at the base of kitchen units, typically 100–150 mm high, which conceals the adjustable feet beneath the cabinets. that is too tall, or an incorrectly cut plinth aperture, will obstruct the door and prevent full opening. Check the product’s installation diagram for the required plinth cut-out dimensions.

Typical plinth height: 100–150 mm. Most models require a cut-out — verify dimensions in the installation guide.
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Services — water, waste, and electrics

Confirm that the water inlet hose and waste drain hose will reach their connections without forcing the machine forward. The waste standpipe or trap connectionA U-bend fitting under the sink where the dishwasher’s waste hose connects, preventing sewer gases from entering the kitchen. should ideally be within 1.5–2 m of the appliance. Electrical supply should be a dedicated fused spur or accessible socket that can be isolated without disconnecting the appliance.

Waste connection: within 1.5–2 m. Power: fused spur or accessible socket.
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Door panel thickness and hinge swing

The furniture panel you attach to the dishwasher door adds 16–22 mm to the overall depth. Make sure a fully loaded, open door will not collide with adjacent units, an island, or the opposite run of cabinets. Allow at least 68–76 cm of clear space in front of the dishwasher for the door to lie flat and for comfortable loading.

Panel thickness: 16–22 mm. Clear opening space in front: ≥ 680–760 mm.

Measurement Reference Checklist

Use the table below as a reference alongside the specific niche dimensionsThe manufacturer’s stated minimum cabinet opening measurements the dishwasher requires to fit and operate correctly — always found in the product’s installation guide. in your chosen model’s installation manual. Manufacturer specifications take precedence over general guidance.

DimensionWhat to measureTarget / guidanceYour measurement
Width Cabinet opening at top, middle, bottom — use smallest value ≥ 600 mm (full) or ≥ 450 mm (slimline); allow 2–3 mm clearance each side _______ mm
Height Floor to underside of worktop, both sides — use smaller value 810–870 mm with levelling allowance; check floor height under cabinet _______ mm
Usable depth Wall to cabinet front, minus any pipe/socket protrusions ≥ 600 mm (body 55–57 cm + 5–7 cm rear service gap) _______ mm
Plinth height Floor to underside of cabinet carcass 100–150 mm typical; verify cut-out dimensions in installation guide _______ mm
Door panel Thickness of the furniture door panel you will attach 16–22 mm typical; confirm hinge swing will not foul adjacent units _______ mm
Services reach Distance from appliance position to waste connection and power point Waste within 1.5–2 m; power accessible for isolation OK / Extend
Front clearance Space in front of the cabinet opening when door is fully open ≥ 680–760 mm for door to lie flat and baskets to slide out _______ mm
Before you order: Compare every figure above against the niche dimensions and ventilation clearances in the specific product’s installation manual. Dimensions vary between brands and models — general guidance is a starting point, not a substitute for the manufacturer’s spec.

Door Systems: Sliding Hinge vs Door-on-Door

This is a frequently overlooked decision that can cause significant installation problems if you get it wrong — particularly if you are replacing an existing integrated dishwasher with a model from a different manufacturer. There are two ways the furniture door panel attaches to an integrated dishwasher.

Sliding hinge (rail hinge)

The furniture panel is attached to the cabinet carcass. When you open the dishwasher, the panel slides upward along rails as the door drops forward. The panel stays roughly in its original position rather than swinging out.

Best for: kitchens with a plinth height over 90 mm, or where the cabinet door needs to stay in place. Works with most kitchen styles and is the more universally compatible option.

Door-on-door (fixed hinge)

The furniture panel is attached directly to the dishwasher door itself. When you open the dishwasher, the panel opens with it, swinging fully outward and downward. No sliding mechanism is involved.

Best for: handle-free kitchens; heavier door panels; situations where the space above the plinth is very limited. Requires more clear space in front of the machine when the door is open.

If your plinth height is less than 90 mm, either system will typically work. Above 90 mm, a sliding hinge is usually necessary to allow the door to open without the panel catching on the plinth. If you are replacing an existing integrated dishwasher, sticking with the same hinge type is the simplest route unless you are also having cabinetry work done. Check the product listing or installation guide to confirm which system a model uses — not all models offer both.

Fully Integrated vs Semi-Integrated

Both types slot into standard cabinet openings and share the same width, height, and depth dimensions. The difference is entirely about the control panel’s visibility.

FeatureFully integratedSemi-integrated
Appearance when closed Completely hidden — looks identical to surrounding cabinets Narrow control strip visible at the top of the door
Controls location Inside the top edge of the door — only visible when open External strip panel, visible and accessible at all times
Checking cycle progress Requires opening the door, or a floor-projected light beam on some models Visible at a glance without opening the door
Dimensions Identical — same niche requirements for both types
Best for Kitchens where a seamless, uninterrupted look is the priority Households who prefer quick access to controls and cycle information

Some fully integrated models project a small beam of coloured light onto the floor to indicate that a cycle is running — a useful feature if the visible control strip of a semi-integrated model would feel like a compromise. Look for this in the product specification if it matters to you.

Which Size Is Right for Your Household?

Capacity needs tend to be straightforward: if you regularly run the dishwasher once a day and have a household of three or more, a full-size 60 cm model is almost always the better choice. A slimline works well for one or two people and rarely needs more than one cycle per day.

Choose full-size (60 cm) if…

  • Your household has 3 or more people
  • You cook regularly and generate a full load of dishes daily
  • You entertain frequently and need capacity for larger pots and dishes
  • Your cabinet aperture is 60 cm wide
  • You want maximum flexibility on wash programmes and energy ratings

Choose slimline (45 cm) if…

  • Your household has 1–2 people
  • Your available cabinet width is 45 cm
  • You are in a flat, studio, or smaller kitchen
  • You are content to run the dishwasher every 1–2 days rather than daily
  • Space efficiency is more important than capacity

Note that running a slimline dishwasher twice daily to cope with a larger household’s output will likely consume more water and energy overall than a single daily full-size cycle. If your space genuinely only accommodates 45 cm, then a slimline is the right answer — but if you have the width for 60 cm, the larger model is almost always the more practical long-term choice for a family. For further guidance on dishwasher types, see our dishwasher guides and advice section.

Common Measurement and Installation Mistakes

  • Measuring at one point only. Cabinet openings are rarely perfectly parallel. Always measure width at three heights and height on both sides, then use the smallest figures.
  • Forgetting the rear service gap. The body of the dishwasher is 55–57 cm deep, but the machine cannot sit flush against the back wall. Water and waste hoses need 5–7 cm of clearance behind the appliance.
  • Ignoring the door panel thickness. A 20 mm furniture panel adds 20 mm to the effective depth. If your cabinet run is tight, this can mean the panel projects past adjacent cabinet fronts or collides with a door or island opposite.
  • Getting the hinge type wrong. If you order a door-on-door model to replace a sliding hinge installation (or vice versa), the door panel will not function correctly without cabinet modifications.
  • Not checking the plinth cut-out dimensions. Every integrated dishwasher specifies an exact plinth cut-out size. If you reuse an existing plinth cut-out from a different model, it may be the wrong size for the new appliance’s door to open fully.
  • Fixing the machine in place before testing the door. Always slide the dishwasher fully into the niche and open the door completely before securing it. This catches clearance issues — particularly with the door panel swing — before the installation is complete.
  • Overlooking floor height discrepancies. If the floor under the cabinet has not been tiled or finished to the same level as the surrounding floor (common in kitchen renovations), the available height will be greater than expected, and the adjustable feet may not compensate fully.

Frequently Asked Questions

Most integrated dishwasher bodies are 55–57 cm deep, which is shallower than the 60 cm typical of freestanding models. However, you need to add 5–7 cm behind the appliance for water inlet and waste hoses. Some manufacturers also specify a ventilation gap at the rear. The furniture door panel (16–22 mm) adds further depth at the front. Always check the specific niche dimensions and clearance requirements in the product’s installation guide rather than relying on general figures.
Yes, but it requires more work than a like-for-like swap. You will need a suitable cabinet housing with the correct aperture dimensions, a matching furniture door panel, and confirmation that the plumbing and electrical connections are positioned correctly for the new appliance. If the existing water inlet, waste outlet, and power point are in the right locations, the main additional cost is cabinetry and the door panel itself.
Do not force the appliance into an undersized opening. Even a few millimetres of interference can prevent the machine from sitting level, misalign the door panel, and cause the door to bind or the carcass to flex over time. If the shortfall is very small (2–3 mm), carefully checking whether a skirting board, end panel, or fillet strip is causing the restriction may reveal an easy fix. Otherwise, the options are to have the cabinetry adjusted by a joiner or to select a model with a slightly smaller stated niche width.
No — slimline machines use the same wash technology, water temperatures, and programme types as full-size equivalents. The difference is purely capacity: 9–10 place settings versus 12–16. Cleaning performance at equivalent price points is broadly comparable. The practical consideration is running frequency: a small household that runs a slimline once every couple of days will use less water overall than a larger household running it twice daily to keep up with demand.
Not necessarily — connecting an integrated dishwasher to existing plumbing and electrics is within the capability of a competent DIYer. The trickier parts are fitting and aligning the door panel correctly, cutting the plinth to the right dimensions, and adjusting the levelling feet so the machine sits flush. If you are also moving water or waste connections, or adding a new electrical spur, those elements should be handled by a qualified plumber and electrician respectively.
“Built-in” is a broad term that describes any dishwasher designed to fit within kitchen cabinetry — it covers both fully integrated and semi-integrated models. A fully integrated dishwasher is completely hidden behind a matching cabinet door, with controls on the inner top edge of the door. A semi-integrated model has a visible control strip at the top of the front face. Both are technically “built-in.”
When the door lies fully open and flat, you need approximately 68–76 cm of clear floor space in front of the dishwasher to allow the door to lie down and the baskets to slide out comfortably. If the dishwasher is in a corner position, allow at least 5 cm between the open door panel and any adjacent wall or unit to prevent the hinge mechanism from being damaged over time.
The main factor is your plinth height. If the gap between the floor and the underside of the cabinet carcass is less than approximately 90 mm, either a sliding hinge or a door-on-door system will generally work. If it is over 90 mm, a sliding hinge system is usually required so that the furniture panel can clear the plinth as the door opens. If you are replacing an existing integrated model, identifying which system is currently installed and matching it will save you having to modify the cabinetry.

Key Takeaways

  • Most UK kitchens take a 60 cm full-size integrated dishwasher. A 45 cm slimline is the choice when the available width is genuinely limited to 45 cm.
  • Measure width at three heights, height on both sides, and usable depth after subtracting any pipe or socket protrusions. Use the smallest figure in each dimension.
  • Integrated dishwasher bodies are 55–57 cm deep — allow an additional 5–7 cm behind the appliance for service connections.
  • Check your plinth height to determine whether a sliding hinge or door-on-door system is required. Getting this wrong can make the door inoperable without cabinet modifications.
  • Fully integrated and semi-integrated models use identical niche dimensions. The only difference is whether the control panel is hidden or visible.
  • Always compare your measurements against the specific niche dimensions in the product’s installation guide — general guidance cannot account for model-to-model variation.
  • Slide the dishwasher fully in and test the door before fixing it in place. This is the step most commonly skipped, and the one that catches clearance issues before they become permanent problems.

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